Saké and Where To Start
A friend recently asked me, "What's the deal with hot saké? Is that an actual thing in Japan or just the way we serve it in America?" Excellent question. Let me start with the basics.
First — please do not call it "SAH-KEY." Saki is an entirely different word in Japanese. The correct pronunciation is "sah-kay," and sometimes in English we put an accent over the e (saké) to help. Now that you know how to ask for it properly, let's get to the good stuff.
What Is Saké?
Many people think saké is on par with vodka or a similar clear spirit. In fact, it's much more like beer — it's brewed, not distilled, and the main ingredient is rice. If you're looking for a strong rice spirit, that would be shochu (I'll talk about that separately). Saké comes in just as many varieties and from as many regions as American craft beer. It can be filtered or unfiltered, clear or cloudy, delicate or robust — and like craft beer, some batches are made in tiny artisanal quantities.
Choosing Your First Saké
The most common saké brand in the US is Gekkeikan — the Budweiser of saké. It's perfectly fine for cooking or for drinking warm, but to truly understand what saké can be, you'll want to explore further.
When choosing a saké, look at the label and pay attention to the grade:
- Futsu-shu — Regular grade, often served warm. Great for hot saké.
- Junmai — Pure rice saké with no added distilled alcohol. A great starting point for cold/room temperature drinking.
- Tokubetsu Junmai — "Special" junmai, usually a step above in quality.
- Ginjo — Light, fruity, aromatic. Best served cold.
- Daiginjo — The pinnacle. Delicate, complex, and typically expensive. Always served cold.
My everyday favorite is Tozai "Living Jewel," which I find at my local liquor store for about $15 a bottle. I drink it cold in a regular glass — no pretensions, just joy.
Storing and Serving Saké
Rule of thumb: store saké the way you bought it. Shelf-stable saké goes on the shelf. Refrigerated saké goes in the fridge. Saké doesn't go "bad" but it does change in flavor once opened — it's best within 24–48 hours of opening. After that, use it for cooking and open a fresh bottle.
For hot saké: heat it in a carafe placed in a pot of hot water, or microwave briefly (then stir to eliminate hot spots). There are even Japanese microwaves with a dedicated saké button — which is exactly as wonderful as it sounds.
The Miso Cozy Mysteries Connection
In Matsuri and Murder, we travel to Kayo's hometown where her parents own a saké brewery. Writing this novella gave me the perfect excuse to dig deep into the world of artisanal saké production — the rice polishing ratios, the koji mold, the seasonal brewing cycles. It's a fascinating world, and one that's deeply embedded in rural Japanese culture.
If you'd like to learn more, I recommend: The Book of Saké: A Connoisseur's Guide, Saké: A Modern Guide (which includes saké cocktails!), and The Saké Handbook. Kanpai!